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Recommended Documents:

• Facts You Should Know About Windshield Repair Resins
• Technical Windshield Facts You Should Know
• Decades of Data on Windshield Repairs
• The United States Windshield Repair Guidelines
• Repair of Laminated Auto Glass Standard (ROLAGS)
• ROLAGS Lab Test Scores of Ultra Bond Resins, Tools and Curing
• ROLAGS Mechanical Strength Test Scores of 12 Windshield Repair Kits

The only real way to learn about windshield repair is to ACTUALLY DO IT! You should be proficient and comfortable with our windshield crack repair methods after approximately 20 repairs.



You must practice INSIDE a garage. This will allow you time to develop your technique and skills before you work in the sun, which requires that you work quickly.

BEFORE you go out to repair for money, you must first practice. Your name and reputation depend on it. Here are a few ways you can get experience.

1. Find a junkyard that will allow you to work on windshields in the yard (this way they are still in the vehicle). Create your own, fresh breaks using your bullseye taper and center punch. The existing cracks may be too old and too dirty. To make an edge crack drill one inch from the edge of the windshield, half way through the out layer and tap a bullseye with the needle at a 45 degree angle. You can also use your probe and tap it with the handle of a screw driver. If you are unable to work in the yard, take an old windshield to practice on. The stress on a windshield out of the vehicle is much different than in the vehicle, but you will be able to get the feel of the tools, preparing, drilling and sliding.
2. Sacrifice your own windshield.
3. Purchase two or three pieces of laminated glass around 12" X 12" or 24" x 24". Practice drilling and tapping bullseyes on the glass sheets also.
4. Best Method - Purchase a windshield and two saw horses. Lay the windshield on the saw horses. Using a glass cutter scribe on the side edge about one inch and then split using your hands, thumbs on the underside/innerlite. This will cause an edge-crack. You will get about 12-14 cracks like this from one windshield and by then you will be ready for the real world. You can also make breaks and practice drilling in the center to practice stone-breaks.
5. At some point you will have to start repairing real breaks on other people's windshield. Start with neighbors, relatives or friends. Once you start with customers you do not have to charge if the repair does not turn out well.

You have to practice and you have to do the repairs. Watching may give you some tips but you cannot be confident in your repairs until you've done them.

Remember that like everything else windshield repair takes practice while learning, but you will make mistakes. A break will spread or you may break a drill bit (sometimes they stay in the glass). The spread can be fixed and the drill bit can remain in the glass if you cannot pull it out (carefully with pliers and pull straight out), it's all in how cool you remain when it happens.

SAFETY WARNINGS

1. DO NOT LOOK AT THE ULTRA VIOLET LIGHT. It can burn the retina of your eyes. Wear 100% UV protective sun or safety glasses whenever you have it turned on and make sure the customer is not within it's range.
2. AVOID GETTING WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN AND ADDITIVES ON YOUR SKIN. The resins contain an acid, which can cause rashes and blistering. Cleanliness is important. Do not allow the resin to drip down your injector. Wear protective polyethylene gloves and/or combine with a protective hand lotion. Wash your hands after each repair.
3. DO NOT GET WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN OR ADDITIVES ON PAINTED SURFACES. The acid will eat the paint. Make sure you have the customer's vehicle well protected.
4. THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR COMMERCIAL AIRCRAFT GLASS.
5. DO NOT PERFORM ANY REPAIR THAT MAY HINDER THE DRIVER'S LINE OF VISION.
6. WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for protection against loose glass and resin.

WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN

Shelf Life: 3 years at room temperature.

Choosing the proper windshield repair resin for a particular job is a major part of the art and science of windshield repair. Making the right choice will make the windshield repair fast, easy and great looking. Choosing the wrong windshield repair resin can cause trouble while doing the windshield repair and deterioration down the road.

Windshield Repair Resin Safety: We recommend that you wear goggles and gloves when using the resins, additives, pre-treatments, primers and cleaners. Gloves, because some people react to the acid content with continued use, especially in combination with the drying effects of the alcohol used to clean your tools. Ultra Bond carries glove and cotton inner liners. Use your safety goggles provided in your windshield repair kit to protect you from small bits of glass, breaking drill bits, needles or resin.

Windshield Repair Resin Quality & Composition: The Ultra Bond resins are the finest in the business. They do contain an acid because it improves the chemical bonding process to the glass. Windshield Repair Resins without acid will have a considerably lower adhesive strength, as will resins with any contaminant such as pigment used to tint.

CHOOSING A WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN:

The underlying basis for choosing windshield repair resin is that you want to use the thickest resin possible, given the circumstances. The circumstances being: temperature and type of damage. Resin reacts to temperature like syrup, when it is warmed, it thins, when it cools, it thickens. Temperature will greatly affect the windshield repair resin you choose for a given damage.

Note: If you see bulls-eyes or combination breaks looking only partially filled after a few months, the resin has shrunk and pulled away from the laminate. The resin used for this repair was too thin or was not cured under pressure.

Low Viscosity Windshield Repair Resins:

Low viscosity (0-90cps) adhesives are for the repair of chips only , not long cracks.

High Viscosity Windshield Crack Repair Resins:

200 CPS: Use at the point of the crack including the drilled hole.

400 CPS: Use at the point of the crack including the drill hole.

1600 cps: Use in the edge area of an edge cracks. Can usually fill 1/3 - 1/2 of the crack. Start at the edge and slide toward the point  until it stops flowing.

2400 cps: Use in the edge area of an edge cracks. Must be used in the edge area of an edge crack when the impact is a stone-break (a star or combination break). The 2400 will be able to seal and separate the the break

100 CPS - This is not low viscosity but can be used with the Wonder Bar Bridge. All types of chips can be repaired with our 100 CPS Structural Adhesive windshield repair resin because this windshield repair tool can flex open stone-breaks like no other tool on the market.

Step #6  - Mount the Crack Master on the windshield and center the cylinder over the drilled hole.

Step #7 - Twist the cylinder until the cylinder is flush against the windshield and the bridge is level.  The two leveling and stabilizing bolts are set at the right amount of pressure for injecting resin without pushing the crack closed. The (center) pressure bolt is for temporarily increasing the pressure on the resin while injecting crack resin into the drilled hole at the point. Release the (center) pressure bolt off of the glass when you are ready to slide down the crack.  Raise the piston (counter clockwise or left) for vacuum and lower it (clockwise or right) for pressure.

Long Crack Sliding Structure

Crack Master Bridge Structure

Wonder Bar Crack Opener

Quick Turn Injector

Crack repair has been a part of the windshield repair industry since 1990 when Ultra Bond founder Richard Campfield figured it out and was granted patents on what is referred to as 'The Multi-Viscosity Method". Windshield Crack Repair requires more skill, labor, chemicals and tools than the repair of a stone break but not near as much labor and skill as a replacement. You must be efficient at stone damage repair to understand this module. There is no difference in the skill to repair a short crack versus a long crack:

The objective when repairing a crack is to completely fill the crack and break.

The repair should be clear when looking at its profile (45 º angle) and there should be no lines or spots of refraction.

The major difference between repairing a crack versus a stone break where one tool is placed over the impact point and vacuum and pressure is applied, is with crack repair one tool is place at the point of the crack after it has been drilled and a bullseye tapped; another tool will be slid over the crack in order to inject the resin and another tool is placed on the inside to pry open and stabilize the crack.

The most important and critical component of crack repair is the resin and you must do your homework so that you know the resin's properties and use the right resins. You should know the fundamentals of adhesives because windshield repair is all about adhesives.

In a nutshell you repair a crack by:

(1) drilling and tapping a bullseye at the point of the crack;

(2) place a windshield repair tool over the drill hole, vacuum and then place in the pressure mode;

(3) place a crack opener on the inside of the crack approximately two- three inches from the point where your tool is set up injecting resin and turn the bolt to apply pressure and open the crack;

(4) prepare your crack tool and inject the crack by sliding it over the surface of the crack;

(5) Cure the resin and clean the windshield. That is it in a nutshell. Now for the specifics.

There are two types of cracks, a floater crack and an edge crack. 90% of crack repairs will be an edge crack. The edge crack is also the easier of the two.

Residual stress is in the glass and is created during the annealing or cooling process after the glass has been bent and molded and comes out of the oven. The level or magnitude of residual stress can be controlled by controlling the cooling rate through the annealing range to prevent molecules from being pulled apart by the varying rates of cooling occurring at the edge area. This phenomenon causes there to be a perimeter band on the part which is subject to residual tensile stress and is hence the weakest area of the windshield.

It is technically called a "tension bulge". Very quick cooling results in high stress levels while slow cooling reduces the levels and hence increases the time and cost to manufacture the windshield. A band of tension exists just in from the edge. This tensile stress will taper to zero usually 1.5 inches from the edge. This area is called the "Weak Spot" by windshield manufacturer engineers - technically it is called a "tension bulge". It is required by contract with the vehicle manufacturer that an OE windshield not exceed tensile stress of 1000 psi and the edge compression be kept to 1500 psi minimum.

One of the differences between an OE and an ARG is an ARG windshield has no contract limiting these stresses and these stresses can be two times higher in an ARG windshield. OE's are annealed slower which increases the manufacture time and subsequently the cost of the windshield. You should notice when you repair a crack if it is an OE or ARG and also know that the resin you are using can handle this stress without yielding and retain its strength after exposure.

Induced stress comes from the installation and is also referred to as installation stress. This is the stress that causes the fracture in the weak spot to crack and is also why nine out of ten cracks will be over six-inches. Because the windshield is being glued to the vehicle at its weakest area the residual stress is both increased in magnitude (200-1500 psi) and expands to about two inches in from the edge. You can feel the induced stress, which can be over 2,000 psi by knocking with your knuckle at the edge and go inward until you feel and hear it change.

Usually four to five inches in. This is the stress your resin must deal with. This stress causes the fracture to split apart (outward or perpendicular to the crack) creating a gap. The stress upon cracking is relived for the time being and then the opposing lamination stress pulls the crack back together usually after is has cracked 10-12 inches and the crack stops.

This is why an edge crack has a wide gap at the edge and at the point it has to be pried open to inject even low viscosity resin. So remember an edge crack has thousands of psi of stress and a gap at the edge and no stress and no gap at the point. The resin used at the edge area therefore needs to have the properties of a structural adhesive.

If the resin does not have the strength to hold the stress at the edge or it loses strength after exposure it will look like the diagrams in The United States Windshield Repair Guidelines.

Working with different temperatures affects the windshield repair resin and can call for alternative resin applications. This is why you need to know the fundamentals of adhesives and the properties of the resin you are using so you can adapt to the situation.

Best Method - This technique allows you to inject the thickest resin possible (the rule of thumb) in the majority of the crack. For this procedure you will need: one injector, one 1600 or 2400 with a white tip seal, one Long Crack Repair tool and 2-3 Crack Openers. The advantages of this method is you have one cure as you do not have to cure the bullseye at the point under pressure because it has 200 or 400 in it.

1. Drill and tap a bullseye at the point.
2. Mount either the Crackmaster  Long Crack Slider tool with your injector filled with the 200 or 400 resin at the point OR you can use the 2-bar bridge at the point (the tool with two suction cups) with 200 or 400 resin and straddle the crack. Use a liberal amount of petroleum jelly or Vaseline on the suction cup(s) as you will need to slide the tool - too much is better than too little.
3. Mount a crack opener on the inside of the windshield about one  inch from the drilled hole and a second crack opener right next to the first one. If you only have one crack opener use a liberal amount of petroleum jelly or Vaseline on the suction cups as you will may need need to slide it. Too much is better than too little. You do not need to slide if you have two crack openers. Two cracks openers will work better than one and you can use Spray-a-way glass cleaner instead of petroleum jelly to lubricate the suction cups of the crack openers. 
4. Use the vacuum and pressure process at the bullseye at the point. Now, flex open the crack with the crack openers until you see the 400 start to flow; then stop applying pressure with the crack opener.
5. Go to the edge and inject edge crack resin (1600 or 2400) appropriate for type of crack and temperature. Starting at the edge where the installation stress has opened the crack up and created a gap. Use another injector or just the resin bottle with a white seal on the bottle tip with edge crack resin 1600 or 2400 and slide toward the middle of the crack unto it stops flowing. It will stop when the lamination stress becomes greater than the installation stress and pulls the crack inward/closed.
6. Go back to the point and slowly slide down the crack keeping the resin flowing in front of the injector, do not get ahead of the resin. Slide until you meet the edge crack resin in the middle where the edge crack resin stopped. (If using the Crackmaster bridge structure at the point, straddle the crack and lubricate the suction cups very well.)
7. Remove all tools. Tab the entire crack by laying a bead of 2400 resin on top of the entire length of the crack and then cover with film tabs or the whitish looking scotch tape to remove oxygen (air) from the resin and cure. With the Scotch tape you can just scrape it off and throw it away when you are done.

More Tool Options and Repair Methods with the Wonder Bar Tools.

For long cracks you can:

1. Use the 2- bar bridge at the point and drilled hole with 200 or 400 resin and straddle the crack. Using the pressure bolt will quickly inject the 400 into the drilled hole and tapped bullseye but be sure to release it when you go to slide down the crack. Always use two crack openers at the point.

2. Use one bar as a Long Crack Slider with a soft suction cup or the stiff suction cup. Use much more lubricant if you use the stiff cup as it does not slide as easily as the soft. Also make sure the cup is always flat to the glass when sliding, not riding the perimeter of the cup. The cup with the black hex bolt is the soft cup, the white hex bolt is the stiff.

3. Injecting the edge area with edge crack resin 1600 or 2400:

  (a) injector-slide by hand with the quick-turn injector,

  (b)  the resin bottle with the white seal on the tip

  (c)injector slide by hand with the yellow plastic injector.

  (d) Use the one bar Long Crack Slider but do not attach the suction cup to the glass. Thread the injector and stabilizing bolts so they are about one inch out of the bottom of the bar. See picture below. It will slide very easily without the suction cup attached to the glass. You can also use this in the middle of the crack with 200 or 400 resin once the edge crack resin has stopped flowing switch to the 200 or 400 and slide toward the point until it stops flowing. Then slide off the drill hole to fill what is left. This will usually only be 1-3 inches down from the drill hole. You can also reverse this starting at the point area once the crack has opened up enough to where you no longer need the pressure from the cup to inject resin and go towards the edge. Using 3 crack-openers helps going in this direction. This also comes in handy with very long cracks or cracks with multiple curves.

4. Floater Cracks - use four crack openers- two on each side of the stone-break and two long crack sliders, one at each point.

This is called the "Two-Step" Method.

1. Place a crack opener two inches from the point with light pressure on the bolt touching the glass. Use Vaseline on the suction cups so you can slide the crack opener if necessary.

    2. Mount your tool with 200 resin around the middle of the crack with your suction cups lubricated for sliding.

    3. Fill your other injector with edge crack resin or use the edge crack resin pressure syringe and starting at the edge injector slide into the middle until the

        resin stops flowing.

    4. Pick up with the 200 cps windshield repair resin where the edge crack resin stopped injecting and slide to the point. Stop approximately one inch from the

        point or when the resin stops flowing. Stop clean meaning the resin at where you stop is straight vertically and not bleeding toward the point.

    5. Release the crack opener pressure. Always remove the crack opener bolt from the glass before curing or you will alter the refractive index of the

         windshield repair resin.

     6. Tab and cure the injected section of the crack which will be approximately 95-98% of the crack.

     7. After curing go back and repair the point; drill and tap a bullseye and repair with 45 resin just like you would a normal stone break using vacuum and

         pressure. Cure under pressure, remove tool and pit fill drilled hole. Note: If the resin in the crack is not vertical and bled toward the point then use 20 cps.

     8. Clean up and you are done.

Note: This method is used on hot windshields because often when drilling the point when you go to tap the crack it will jump through the bullseye. By repairing all but the point and curing it you have relieved this stress and pulled the crack together.

The floater crack is a stone break that was ignored and cracked from temperature change, usually by the defroster, heat, cold or a car wash. This crack is pure negligence by the vehicle owner who should have had the stone break repaired. This crack does not run to the edge and is why it is called a floater crack because it is floating in the interior of the windshield and is usually horizontal.

This is the most difficult and time consuming crack repair. The steps do not have to be followed in order either and can depend on how many tools you have. In fact you may alter the steps after examining the crack and impact point. This crack does not have a gap like an edge crack nor the stress. It is tight and has two points and an impact break, which means you are not only going to repair the crack but have three stone break procedures to perform plus the crack. The impact is almost always a star, bullseye or combination break.

This repair can take 45-60 minutes. Best resin for a floater is 200 or 400 cps. Use 400 if the windshield is hot.  Fill as much of the crack as possible with. Sometimes you can only get 200 cps in. 

1. One Windshield Repair Tool and One Crack Opener.

1. Drill and tap a bullseye at the points. Place a tool at the point(s); vacuum and pressure.

    2. Multiple crack openers will make a floater crack repair much easier. If you only have one use Vaseline on the suction cups so you can slide the crack

        opener if necessary. Place a crack opener(s) approximately 1-3 inches from the point(s). Prepare and mount your sliding injector tool and slide along the

        crack.

    3. Go around the impact break and do not let any windshield repair resin seep into the break's bullseye.

     4. If you have only one tool you will need to stop when the windshield repair resin stops injecting near the other point. Cover the entire break area with a

          resin that does not seep into the break (2400) through the impact point, then cure. Do not scrape off

     5. You now have the original break separated and sealed, so that it is repaired just like a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Drill through the

           windshield repair resin into the impact point, repair and cure.

      6. Repair the other point just like a stone break and cure.

       7. Scrape off, clean up and you are done.

2. Two Windshield Repair Tools and Two Crack Openers

1. Drill and tap a bullseye at the points. Place a tool at the points; vacuum and pressure.
2. Place a crack opener approximately 2-3 inches from each of the points and adjust the pressure bolt.
3. Prepare and start sliding your injector tool along the crack.
4. Go around the impact break and do not let any windshield repair resin seep into the break's bullseye.
5. Cover the entire break area with windshield repair resin that does not seep into the break (2400) through the impact point, then cure. Do not scrape off.
6. You now have the original break separated and sealed, so that it is repaired just like a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Drill through the cured windshield repair resin into the impact point, repair and cure.
7. Scrape off, clean up and you are done.

3. Easiest Method - Two windshield repair tools and Four Crack Openers.

1. Drill and tap a bullseye at the points. Place a tool at the points; vacuum and pressure.
2. Place a crack opener approximately 2-3 inches from each of the points and adjust the pressure bolt and then another one on each side a few inches from the one nearest the tip/point.
3. Prepare and start sliding your injector tool along the crack.
4. Go around the impact break and do not let any windshield repair resin seep into the break's bullseye.
5. Cover the entire break area with windshield repair resin that does not seep into the break (2400) through the impact point, then cure. Do not scrape off.
6. You now have the original break separated and sealed, so that it is repaired just like a normal stone break using vacuum and pressure. Drill through the cured windshield repair resin into the impact point, repair and cure.
7. Scrape off, clean up and you are done.

For more repair tips go to our newsletter website Windshield Repair Journal.

Priming a crack can increase the adhesive bond to the glass. It is only necessary when the glass is cold.

There are two general types of repair failures:

1. Cohesive failure: The resin splits and sticks to the sides or walls of the crack. The appearance is spotty.

    2. Adhesive failure: The resin pulls away from the side(s) of the crack. This type of failure will look as if the crack has never been repaired, and it can be  re-repaired.

Using our crack resins eliminate cohesive failures.

Inject the edge area of the crack using a primer (45 cps for a cold windshield and 90 cps for a hot windshield). Re-inject the remainder/edge section with a crack resin. Working from the middle toward the edge will push the primer out of the gap better than working from the edge to the point.

200 CPS: For use in the point including the drill hole and tapped bullseye of an edge cracks and  floater cracks. Use above 40 degrees

400 CPS: For use in the point including the drill hole and tapped bullseye and the middle section of an edge crack. Also use for a floater crack. Use above 70 degrees.

1600 CPS: Use for the edge section of an edge crack which is the first 4 inches from the edge of the windshield. Works best at 70 degrees and above. If used below room temperature, it will need to be warmed or it will not wet the glass well. If you cannot warm the glass, then the edge area (4-5 inches from the edge) should be primed with the 45 resin.

2400 CPS: For use in the edge section of an edge crack which is the first 4 inches of the edge crack when the glass is hot - 85 degrees and above. Prime the edge area first when the glass is below room temperature or cooler with 45 cps. Also use in the edge rea when the impact break is a star or combination break in order to separate and seal the break off so it can be repaired after you repair and cure the long crack.

 *Long crack windshield repair resins are all compatible with each other and with the primers.

Always fill the crack with the thickest resins possible.

Compatibility means they can be mixed in the cylinder or injected on top of, or next to, one another. Once a resin is cured, any other resin can be injected or placed next to it.

Heating crack resins or the windshield when below room temperature will increase the bond to the glass.

Injecting a primer in the edge area when the glass is cold and then re-injecting a crack resin in the edge/remainder will increase the bond to the glass by improved wicking and wetting.

1600 AND 2400 cps must be used at or above room temperature or they must be heated. This is done by heating the injector with blow dryer, heat gun or a soldering iron placed in the heating port hole of the injector. A butane solder iron is best if you are mobile.

ALLOW TIME FOR INTERACTION: Allow time for the resin to interact with the glass which is about two minutes. The higher viscosity crack resins you use, the more time this takes. . Using methods that start with an injector at the edge is best as this will allow the interaction time required while doing the repair since these methods can take up to 20 minutes.

CRACK CLEANING: Prime the crack with the  Xtra Bond adhesive promoter or the X-Phobic pre-treatment if you suspect there is Rain X.

1. Mobile: Have the customer move the vehicle into the shade. It is a bad habit to get into moving the car unless your liability insurance covers this for you. Remember you need "true" shade. If none is available use cardboard or Artist's board to shadow the windshield. Be sure the board is secured with something heavy, but soft.

    2. Place a thick towel on the hood of the vehicle and place your windshield repair kit on the towel to protect the car's paint from the windshield repair resin,

         and anything on your clothing that may scratch the car.

    3. Wash the area of the windshield around the crack. DO NOT SPRAY CLEANER INTO THE BREAK; IT WILL CONTAMINATE THE REPAIR.

Crack Repair Techniques

Objective: Completely fill the crack, preventing it from spreading any further, while achieving the best possible appearance.

Failures: Generally two types of failures occur with repairs:

1. Cohesive failure: The resin splits and is stuck to the walls or sides of the crack.

The appearance is spotty.

2. Adhesive failure: The resin pulls away from the side(s) or the crack. This type of failure looks as if it had never been repaired before and it can be re-repaired.

The use of our crack resins has eliminated cohesive failures when combined with a good technique. Normally adhesive failures occur in the winter months. The glass becomes cool during a repair even when using a 1600 or 2400 cps and the viscosity of these resins rise, preventing a good wet of the glass. During this season, we recommend the priming method, warm the glass whenever possible and keep your resin warm with a soldering iron placed in the heating port hole of your injector. Randomly check your crack repairs at 3 months, 6 months, 1 year and 2 years to see if you are noticing a cohesive or adhesive failure. If you are, a change in viscosity or method will eliminate the problems. It also lets your customer know you care about he work you did for the long term.

Film Tabs: The following methods of crack repair will require you to know how to use "Film Tabs". When told to do so, generously run resin (a long crack resin) along the area of the crack that has been injected with resin and place the tabs over it, butting them up against each other. There should be no bubbles or places not covered by the resin and tabs.

Methods: "Meet in the Middle" and the "Two-Step" are the most popular. You can use 200 or 400 at the point of the meet in the middle method. Then place your Crack Master with 200 or 400 on the drill hole. Turn you crack opener bolt until you see the resin start to go into the crack and then stop. The slowly proceed down the crack until you meet where your 1600 stopped. With 200 or 400 in the point you do not need to cure the point under pressure as you have to when you have 90 in the point because 200 and 400 is mechanical (thick) enough to stay on the PVB upon curing. There are times when the crack is tight and you will have to use 90 at the point but pick up with the 200 or 400 as soon as possible.

Crack Repair Techniques

The Crack Opener is used on the inside of the windshield to pry open the crack. Lubricate the suction cups and mount perpendicular to the crack with the bolt right on the crack about 1-2 inches from the point. Slowly begin to tighten the bolt of the Crack Opener against the crack. You will begin to see the resin start to flow. Stop tightening when this occurs. Multiple crack openers are better than sliding one crack opener along the crack. Proper length with the proper size and durometer of suction cups opens the crack symmetrically and without spreading of the crack..

Trouble Shooting

Windshield Repair Equipment Cleaning and Maintenance

Piston & Cylinder:

The piston and cylinder should be washed in rubbing (70%) alcohol at least once a week. You do not need to clean after each job. If resin has begun to cure or is sticking to the piston or cylinder, they should soak in alcohol for at least 1 hour.

Use your cleaning brush provided in your windshield repair kit to scrub out the inside of the cylinder. Make sure there is no alcohol on the windshield repair equipment before you begin a repair because the alcohol will contaminate the windshield repair resin. Alcohol is the solvent to windshield repair resin. If resin spills on the customer's paint (which it shouldn't because you have it covered well with a large towel) DO NOT use alcohol, try a little window cleaner. The resin will remove the paint and alcohol will remove wax.'

O-Rings:

Dip them in alcohol and take them out immediately. DO NOT SOAK. O-rings will swell and will not fit properly.

Film Taps:

Film tabs can be re-used. Let them sit in the cleaning jar with alcohol and remove at the end of the day. They can be used quite a few times.

Battery:

Charge at least once a week.

Tool Box and Other Tools:

Clean the inside and outside of your toolbox and other tools regularly. This makes an impression on the customer as well as your own appearance.

Updates, new products, new instructions can be found on our newsletter website: Windshield Repair Journal

Getting Your Windshield Repair Business Up and Running in One Month