PROFESSIONAL WINDSHIELD REPAIR

What you want to do here is drill a hole halfway through the outer layer only! Do not go through to the PVB Layer of the windshield, which is in the middle of the windshield. These repairs will require drilling and that's because you need to be able to ensure that the crack does not spread over time. The drilling will set you up to perform the next step in creating a mini-bullseye break into the windshield so you can get the resin into the tip and to the pvb layer of the windshield.

After drilling a small hole into the outer layer of the windshield, you are going to create a bullseye in front of where the edge crack tip is and use the tap kit to create this bullseye break. You want to create a round viod at the tip/point to terminate the tip of the crack into . If you get the bullseye break done correctly, you will easily get the resin in there, and the crack will never go anywhere; meaning it will not spread.

After making a successful bullseye break by tapping the windshield, we sometimes need to prime-the-point (impact point) using Ultra Bond 45 CPS resin (cps = viscosity) ONLY when the glass is cold. Otherwise just use the 400. 

Now get your long crack slider tool loaded with at the 400 resin and place this onto the windshield. Ultra Bond is also the only windshield manufacturer company with a long crack slider tool, we are the only company that can offer you the ability to make these long crack aka edge crack repairs at 100% restoration. This tool is best at it's ability to stay on the crack while you slide along the crack and inject the structural adhesive resin into the the crack to the pvb layer; this tool and resin process is unlike any other on the market. Other resins on the market like Safelite's can come off the PVB Layer of the windshield and leave behind a void and noticeable refraction which does not meet the industry standard.

After getting your long crack repair tool loaded with resin and placed onto the windshield, you want to position this tool directly over the drilled hole and bullseye break made above. After having positioned it correctly over the bullseye, you want to create a vacuum to remove the air and then wick the resin to the windshield. This process is done by turning the Quick-Turn Injector Piston. Proper compression with the crack opener on the inside will create an overfill of resin into the crack. After creating the 2nd vacuum it's time to release the pressure bolt so only the two stabilizing bolts on the long crack slider tool are on the glass. These bolts are set for proper pressure and you will notice the resin starting to fill the crack.

After mounting the long crack slider place the crack opener tool bolt on the inside of the windshield near the drilled hole on the crack. To correctly do this you need to peel or roll on the suction cups onto the glass . To see this demonstrated, please click the video and fast forward to min 4:39 to see this done. It's very important to get this done right, so that the tool suction cups are relatively flat. This crack opener will flex open the crack so we can get the resin to flow into the crack.

While waiting for the long crack resin at the point to start flowing, it's time to inject the edge crack resin, which is a thicker resin. Depending on the temps and gap you will either use a 1600cps or 2400cps resin to fill the edge crack. We sell these syringes in our Professional Series Crack Master Kits, along with an array of different droplet resins with different cps ratings. You'll find in our training guides below (reading/training material), that professional repairs, are done by knowing how to use the correct resin in any situation. The outside temperature plays a role in which resin to use and combination in certain cracks and chip repairs. In the video here, we use an older injector with the 2400cps resin, however, now we have the syringes you can use to do this. To fill the edge crack you will need to inject from the edge inward until resin no longer easily flows into the crack!

In order to make sure that your resin is flowing into the long crack, you will want to stand from the side of the crack to observe this. To make sure that the resin is flowing you can adjust the pressure bolts on both tools to ensure the correct compression is set to force the resin into the crack. Once you know the resin is flowing into the crack, it's time to start slowly sliding the tool to fill the remaining crack.

After getting the edge crack 1600cps or 2400cps resin into the crack and ensuring your resin is flowing from your long crack slider, you will fill the crack until you meet with the edge crack resin you filled in the previous step. Once you meet the other resin, you want to continue a few inches on top of the other resin to ensure there are no air gaps. This will ensure you have a professionally repaired the crack.

In an effort to ensure a professional and quality repair, you want to take the 2400cps droplet resin and spread it along the top of the crack all the way to the edge. This will keep air from entering the crack and ensures that there's no weak spots developing in this part of the windshield. It also helps in keep an invisible repair on the windshield.

Before curing the resin, we need to take one more step to ensure once again we get a quality repair. Take some mylar tape and in about five to eight pieces of tape cover the entire crack. This tape will remove the oxygen so it will cure FAST! If you use tape, make sure you use the whitish opaque tape, this will not block the UV needed to cure.

The final step is to take your UV light and place it horizontally along the crack. You will leave this on the glass for a period of two minutes. After you will take a scraper and slice off the tape and excess resin. Wipe off any additional resin or vaseline left behind with a dry rag, before spraying the glass with glass cleaner. Make sure you clean the outside and inside of the windshield to inspect the windshield and for presentation.