Alternative Methods for Filling a Break in the Windshield

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Flexing by the Holding Structure –remember the two forces that are holding the break together are the two forces your tool needs to overcome in order to get the resin to the tips and perimeter of the break. This is where a piston-cylinder that is just larger than the impact point does well as it pushes down on the (un-surfaced) break and flexes the break open. Having control of this pressure is a must so you can increase the flex on the glass when the break is not filing. This type of tool will also allow you to use a higher viscosity resin which in and of itself has more durability due to increase oligomer. Attempting to automate chip repair by a machine and eliminate the technician ends up with disastrous results. Not having control of this pressure can cause a crack–out on a hot windshield by your tool having uncontrollable pressure.

Increasing Pressure on the Resin – pressure on the resin actually comes from the holding structure and more precisely the opposing force on the suction cup(s). Increasing the flex by raising the Wonder Bar structure by turning the injector and the center Pressure/Flex bolt increases both the flex on the glass and the pressure on the resin. A threaded piston also fine-tunes this pressure.

Flexing with a probe - this method of pushing down on a leg with a pointed metal tool flexes open the sub-surfaced leg. A tool must not cover the legs or when there is a stubborn leg you will end up needing to drill and in essence end up doing two repairs instead of just flexing a leg. Knowingly leaving a leg unfilled is an incomplete repair.

Flexing with a Star Flexor – a Star Flexor tool takes the place of manual flexing a leg with your hand and a probe. This flexes the leg for you and holds it for as long as is needed while you do something else.

Heat the Injector - Heating the injector will in turn heat the resin and drop its viscosity which will increase flow.

Drilling – Last but certainly not least is the good ole trusty drill. When all else fails then you drill. Not drilling or leaving a leg unfilled is an incomplete repair and, in my opinion, fraud.

You may have noticed that I did not mention putting a flame on the glass. That is because heat expands the glass which will close the leg. This also softens the PVB which can then cause flowering. So you are closing the leg, not opening it like flexing does. You are hoping that when the glass cools and the leg opens it is going to suck the resin up the leg (wishful thinking). That is about as efficient as trying to fill a break with only vacuum. It will cause under-filling of the break and legs. The rule of thumb with an adhesive application is to overfill.



These alternative methods are available to any piston-cylinder system. Any tool that covers the entire circumference of the break and beyond only allows for one alternative method to fill. The only alternative method for these systems is to Drill.