Windshield Chip Repair KIT Resin Manual
Welcome to the Ultra BOND windshield repair system training manual for your windshield repair business. This instruction manual is for windshield chip repair or stone breaks. If you have any questions or concerns call us at 800 398-2663 or email [email protected].
As you get out into the field and become familiar with our windshield repair resin, windshield repair products, equipment, and our repair techniques, you will see how easy it is to do windshield chip repair with the Ultra Bond Windshield Repair System.
This windshield repair kit training manual is designed to provide you with the instructions you need to learn the basics of the art and science of a glass repair kit. But remember, this is a hands-on business and the only way to become an expert in the windshield repair business is to do repairs. Read the windshield repair kit instruction manual carefully, and be reassured that if you have any questions, Ultra BOND is here to help. For more information on the internet go to the United States Windshield Repair Guidelines.
8:00 a.m. to 4:30 p.m. Mon-Thurs; 8:00 a.m. to 12:00 p.m. Friday
TABLE OF CONTENTS
- Windshield repair kit check list for the stone-damage kit
- Items you will need in addition to your kit
- Safety Warnings
- Identification of the different breaks
- Before starting
- Talking to the customer
- Preparing the vehicle
- Repair Procedure
- Newest Technology
- Starting your business
- Marketing and Advertising
- 1 Crack Master
- 1 Injector with cap
- 1 Star Flexor
- 1 UV lamp
- 1 Probe
- 1 Mirror
- 1 Bullseye Tapper with needle
- 1 Tweezers
- 1 Screwdriver
- 1 Center Punch
- 1 Drill Bits pack (5 in ea. Pack)
- 1 Cylinder Cleaning Brush
- 1 Razor Blade Holder
- 1 O-ring case
- 1 pk Piston O-rings (12)
- 1 pk Cylinder O-rings (12)
- 1 pk 2″ film tabs (24)
- 1 Pressure disk
- 1 Needle tip injector
- 1 Spray bottle
- 1 Cleaning jar
- 1 Cordless drill / charger/battery
- 1 Sunscreen
- 1 UV Glasses
- 1 Pit Polish
- 1 ea. Resins: 20, 40
- 1 Pit Filler / Large Pit Adaptor
- 1 Xtra Bond
- 1 X-Phobic
- 1 Plastic scrubby
- Isopropyl Alcohol (70% -91%) – for cleaning your tools.
- Petroleum jelly – (Vaseline) for lubricating suction cups
- Glass cleaner -Sprayaway is the best.
- Cleaning Rags
- Towel or mat for protection of the vehicle’s hood
- Penlight for examining the repair.
The only real way to learn about windshield repair is to ACTUALLY DO IT! You should be proficient and comfortable with our stone damage methods after approximately 10-20 repairs.
You must practice INSIDE. This will allow you time to develop your technique and skills without any UV bouncing around to cause the windshield repair resin to prematurely cure.
BEFORE you go out to repair for money, you must first practice. Your name and reputation depend on it. Here are a few ways you can get experience.
- Purchase a 3′ x 4′ laminated glass from an auto glass distributor (see practice at the home video) and lay it on a rack or on two sawhorses. Use the center punch in your windshield repair kit to make breaks and practice drilling.
- At some point, you will have to start repairing real breaks on other people’s windshield. Start with neighbors, relatives or friends. Once you start with customers you do not have to charge if the repair does not turn out well.
- Purchase this saw horse from Harbor Freight for $11.99 (price may vary).
- Order a 3′ X 4 ‘ piece of flat laminated glass from a glass shop.
- See our videos for how to make breaks and cracks.
You have to practice and you have to do the repairs. Watching may give you some tips but you cannot be confident in your windshield repairs until you’ve done them.
Using the center punch in your windshield repair kit, press it against the glass until it clicks. This will make a stone break.
Remember that like everything else windshield repair takes practice while learning, but you will make mistakes. A break will spread or you may break a drill bit (sometimes they stick in the glass). The spread can be fixed and the drill bit can be removed from the glass, it’s all in how cool you remain when it happens.
Click on picture to enlarge.
- DO NOT LOOK AT THE ULTRAVIOLET LIGHT. It can damage the retina of your eyes. Wear 100% UV protective sun or safety glasses whenever you have it turned on and make sure the customer is not within its range.
- AVOID GETTING WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN AND CHEMICALS ON YOUR SKIN. The resins contain an acid(s), which can cause blistering. Cleanliness is important. Do not allow the resin to drip down your injector. Wear protective polyethylene gloves and/or combine with a protective hand lotion. Wash your hands after each repair.
- DO NOT GET WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN ON PAINTED SURFACES. The acid will eat the paint. Make sure you have the customer’s vehicle well protected.
- THIS PROCESS IS NOT FOR COMMERCIAL AIRCRAFT GLASS.
- DO NOT PERFORM ANY WINDSHIELD REPAIR THAT MAY HINDER THE DRIVER’S LINE OF VISION.
- WEAR SAFETY GLASSES for protection against loose glass and resin.
Shelf Life: 3 years at room temperature.
Choosing the proper windshield repair resin(s) for a particular job is a major part of the art and science of windshield repair. Making the right choice will make the windshield repair fast, easy and great looking. Choosing the wrong windshield repair resin can cause trouble while doing the windshield chip repair and deterioration down the road.
Windshield Repair Resin Safety: We recommend that you wear glasses, gloves or hand protectant lotion when using the resins. Gloves, because some people react to the acid content with continued use, especially in combination with the drying effects of the alcohol used to clean your tools. Ultra Bond carries glove and cotton inner liners. Use your safety glasses provided in your windshield repair kit to protect you from small bits of glass, breaking drill bits, needles or resin.
Windshield Repair Resin Quality & Composition: The Ultra Bond windshield repair resins are the strongest and most durable resins in the windshield repair business. This is been proven in lab tests, in court, and in the real world. (See our home page.)They do contain a small amount of acid because it improves the chemical bonding process to the glass. Windshield repair resins without acid will not sustain the stress of temperature extremes. The underlying basis for choosing windshield repair resin is that you want to use the thickest resin possible, given the circumstances. Water thin resins will have considerably lower cohesive strength, as will windshield repair resins with any contaminant such as pigment used to tint. All of Ultra Bond resins are moisture resistant -this is why no dry-vac is necessary; we use chemistry instead of time-consuming hardware.
CHOOSING A WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN:
Windshield chip repair resins are compatible; meaning you could start with one resin and change to another stone damage resin if necessary.
WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESINS FOR STONE DAMAGE:
Chip repair resins are low viscosity (0-100 cps) adhesives and have three characteristics of concern to our repairs:
- Low viscosity resins shrink when they cure.
- They shrink in inverse proportion to their viscosity., ie., the thinner the resin, the greater percentage of shrinkage; thin resins shrink more than thick resins.
- These resins begin to cure immediately and completely cure in five (5) minutes in direct sunlight.
Note: If you see bullseyes or combination breaks looking only partially filled after a few months, the resin has shrunk and pulled away from the glass or laminate. The resin used for this repair was too thin or you did not cure under pressure. You will rarely see this on the legs of a star break because space is so minute.
WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESINS – continued
20 CPS: Our thinnest windshield repair resin and is used for stars, starbursts, and small partial bullseyes. It can be used for all breaks on all stone damage on a cold windshield and is your best choice for star breaks. This windshield repair resin will cause “flowering” on a hot windshield. This resin is also used to remove a “runner” which is a thin line of refraction that you may notice after you have cured a long crack. 20 cps can also be used to remove any spots you notice in the crack.
40 CPS: Use for bullseye and combination breaks in warm weather. Use 40 cps on a star break if the windshield is hot. This resin is thicker than 20 cps.
60 CPS: Use for large combination damages or bullseyes and on hot windshields. It can also be used as a pit filler for smaller impact points and on plate glass repairs.
PIT FILLER: Use as a large-pit-adaptor and a pit-filler. The windshield repair resin you used in the break can also be used to pit-fill and will often last longer because that resin has been sitting in the pit and has wet the pit and interacted with the glass and we recommend this method first. If it is not smooth after you scrape then pit fill again using the pit filler.
WINDSHIELD REPAIR RESIN QUICK REMINDER CHART
- Use the thickest resin possible given the circumstances.
- The circumstances are the temperature and type of damage. You can use a thicker resin in colder temperatures if you increase the temperature of the windshield and resin during the repair.
Type of Damage
|Temperature ranges for resin||Cold (under 50)||Warm (50-75)||Hot (80-up)|
|Star||20 cps||20 cps||40 or 60 cps|
|Bullseye||40||40||60 or 90|
|Combination||20||20 and 40*||40 and 60*|
|Large Combination||20 and 40*||20 and 40*||40 and 60*|
*Combination breaks and large combination breaks can be repaired using two stone damage resins. The thinner resin is injected first and is probed to fill the tips of the legs as far as possible. The injector is placed on vacuum cycle, removed and thicker resin is put in. Then the second resin is injected to fill the large impact area, which pushes the thinner resin to the tips of the legs. This reduces the likelihood of shrinkage related problems. Note: The Star Flexor Tool can be used instead of using the first resin as this tool flexes the legs open and holds them open until they are filled.
Combination Break on the left | Bullseye Break on the right
It is important that you develop the vocabulary of the windshield repair industry so you can think in windshield repair terms. It also helps you to communicate with us when you need assistance.
BULLSEYE: The easiest repair to perform and rarely needs drilling. *For a partial bullseye – see Drilling section and appendix.
STARBREAK: Is the most common break and is more difficult. This is the break to concentrate on. Drilling may be necessary and the repair must be done carefully to prevent further spreading of the cracks. This break will often need more than just vacuum and pressure to completely fill each leg. The Star Flexor in your windshield repair kit will help achieve complete filling of each leg.
COMBINATION BREAK: This break is a combination; a bullseye with a star break in the center. It is more visible after the repair than the other types of breaks listed above because the legs are at many angles. When there are extended cracks running past the bullseye horizontally the tips should be drilled, a bullseye tapped and filled to prevent these legs from running.
It is important for you to know the basic construction of a windshield so that you also understand how the repair is performed with a glass repair kit. This knowledge will give you more confidence when speaking to your customer.
Car windshields are constructed of two separate sheets of glass with a thin layer of plastic called PVB (the laminate) in between. This type of construction is known as “laminated glass” or “safety glass”.
When a break results in the glass (usually caused by a small stone ), it creates an air gap between the layers, light bounces around inside the air space, causing the break to be visible. It also creates a weak spot in the glass which, if not repaired, will crack further due to temperature changes that cause contraction and expansion of the glass.
With the Ultra BOND method of glass repair, the air gap is filled with an optically clear resin that removes the refraction (light bounce). The resin bonds to the surrounding glass preventing it from spreading. Some things that could prevent a quality repair are dirt, moisture, Rain-X or similar products.
Head-On Angle and the Profile
Each leg or crack in a break has a head-on angle and a profile. You must know the difference. The profile is the side of the crack (45-degree angle) and is the angle you watch to see the resin fill. The head-on angle does not change and will always be there. You cannot tell if the resin is filling the break if you are looking at the head-on angle. See The United States Windshield Repair Guidelines for diagrams of the head-on angle and profile of the crack and follow those guidelines when the break is in the acute area.
About the repair
If you are talking to the customer on the phone, find out as much as possible about the break. How did it happen, what caused the break? How large in diameter is the break (use easy references such as nickel, dime, quarter)? How old is the break? Once you have determined the stone damage is repairable, tell the customer you can repair the break, which will prevent it from spreading further, and it will remove the light refraction so that the damage will be barely visible. It will look a lot better, but it will NOT completely disappear. Remember you are providing a repair service, not a new windshield. Sell the benefits… prevention of further cracking and the cost savings.
- Have the customer move the car into the shade, a garage is best, or behind a building. (Do not get into the habit of moving the customer’s car unless your liability insurance covers you for this). A tree is not true shade. If there is no shade, face the back of the car towards the sun and place a piece of cardboard on the roof of the car. This will shade the entire windshield.
- Place a thick towel on the hood of the car and place your tool kit on the towel. The towel should drape down and cover anywhere you might lean against it. Watch out for your belt buckle.
- Carefully wash the area of the windshield around the break. DO NOT SPRAY CLEANER into the break, it will contaminate the repair.
All windshield repairs, stone damage, and cracks begin with these initial steps. The actual repair does not start until after the second pressure cycle. Everything before is just preliminary. The quicker the technician becomes at getting to that second pressure cycle, the quicker all repairs will go.
1. Assess the damage: Consider how will you repair it, what will you expect it to look like upon completion?
- Place mirror on the inside of the windshield so that you can see the break.
- Determine location and profile of legs (star break).
- Determine if wet, or if the windshield needs to cool.
- Is the impact point very large? If so do the large pit procedure first.
- Wearing your safety glasses, probe the impact point. Take the sharp point of your probe and in a circular motion move around inside the impact point removing any little chips of glasses or dirt. This will clear the path for the resin to flow. If there is no bullseye then you will be drilling.
PREPARING YOUR WINDSHIELD REPAIR TOOLS – Click on picture to enlarge
1. Wonder Bar Kit I 2. Wonder Bar Kit II
1. Quick Turn Injector Parts 2. Piston 3. Cylinder
WONDER BAR TOOLS – Click on picture to enlarge
1. Crack Master Bridge Complete 2. Long Crack Repair Slider/Chip Tool Complete
1. Chip Repair 3″ cup complete 2. Star Flexor 1
1. Star Flexor 2 2. Crack Opener
Wonder Bar Parts and Assembly – see the Crack Master Tool Parts for photos of bolts and cups.
1. Crack Master Bridge – 2 wonder bars, one connector nut and bolt, 2 soft two-inch suction cups, two one-inch stabilizer bolts, and one pressure bolt.
2. Crack Opener – 2 soft two-inch suction cups, one 1-1/4 ” bolt and nut or 1-1/2 ” bolt and nut. Note the nut MUST be placed upside down, with head on the bottom side, the same side as the suction cups.
3. Long Crack Slider – two 3/4-inch stabilizing nut and bolts, one pressure bolt and one 2-inch soft suction cup attached with a wonder bar nut and t-nut on top of the nut with the stem going into the nut hole OR the two-inch Suction Cup Bolt with the hex-nut on the suction cup threads.
4. Star Flexor – one 2-inch stiff suction cup and one 1-1/2 inch bolt with two nuts. The two nuts go on both sides of the injector hole, then thread the bolt through both nuts.
5. Single bar Chip Repair tool – (a) one 2-inch stiff suction cup attached with wonder bar nut and t-nut or (b) 3-inch suction cup, two 1-inch stabilizing bolts and one pressure bolt.
6. Star Flexor Bridge –2 wonder bars, one connector nut and bolt, 2 soft two-inch suction cups and one 1-1/2 inch bolt with two nuts. The two nuts go on both sides of the injector hole, then thread the bolt through both nuts.
Click on the images below for a larger detail view
- With the windshield repair resin, you will be using for the glass repair lubricate the one or two o-rings on the bottom of the piston and insert the piston into the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber (which is when the threads are no longer showing).
- Considering the size of the damaged the average break will use 1-2 drops of windshield repair resin, place 10-15 drops of windshield repair resin into the cylinder, which is enough for 7-12 repairs, place the large o-ring on the bottom of the cylinder until the o-rings are on the smooth part of the cylinder chamber.
- Place the cylinder o-ring on the cylinder, then place the tip of the bottle in the hole and squeeze resin into the injector -see the videos for more filling information.
- Twist the cylinder into the bridge or holding structure, but do not go past the bottom of the bridge.
- Lubricate the suction cups of the bridge with a liberal amount of petroleum jelly or Vaseline. Too much is better than too little. You want it to slide and move easily.
- Bring the windshield repair resin up to the O-Ring so to remove all the air from the cylinder, until it touches the O-Ring. This will prevent the resin from spilling out when you turn it over to mount it.
- Mount the Crack Master on the windshield and center the cylinder over the impact point.
- Twist the cylinder and the leveling screw in the back until the cylinder is flush against the windshield and the bridge is level. NOTE: The Leveling Bolt should contact the glass first so the resin does not spill out of the cylinder.
YOU ARE READY TO START THE REPAIR
Objective: To completely fill the break with windshield repair resin using as little pressure as possible.
Method: Vacuum and Pressure. This method is achieved by turning the piston head counter-clockwise for vacuum and clockwise for pressure.
- Vacuum for 5-10 seconds by twisting the piston head counter-clockwise until the threads are almost visible. Note: the piston is up.
- Pressure for 10 seconds by twisting the piston head clockwise a few turns. You will see windshield repair resin begin to flow into the break. Use enough pressure to get the o-ring to rise slightly. Leave the piston on pressure for about 30 seconds. Note: the piston is down.
- Vacuum again for 10-15 seconds to increase wicking.
- Pressure until completely filled. Leave the tool in this mode and…
- Check your break to be sure it has completely filled. See picture below is almost filled. For a star break, you will need to check the profile of each leg. If the break is not filled, please see the next section “Techniques to completely fill the break” and the video on the video page.
- Cure your glass repair using your ultraviolet light provided in your windshield repair kit for two minutes while keeping the tool in the pressure cycle. ALWAYS CURE IN THE PRESSURE CYCLE TO COMPENSATE FOR SHRINKAGE AND TO BOND TO THE PVB/LAMINATE.
- Before removing the tool loosen slightly the leveling bolt, cylinder and turn the piston counter-clockwise 1/2 turn into the vacuum mode to prevent spilling resin. Remove the holding structure by sliding your small screwdriver under the suction cups to pop them off. Turn the crack master upside-down and place the injector cap on to protect the resin from UV and prevent leaking of unused resin.
- Pit Fill by leaving a drop of the windshield repair resin you used in the repair or by placing a drop of your pit filler above the impact point and allowing it to roll into the impact point (this prevents air bubbles) and cover with a film tab. Be sure no bubble has been created under the tab.
- Cure the pit for 1 minute using direct sunlight or your UV lamp.
- Peel off the film tab.
- Using a fresh razor blade, scrape off the excess resin by holding the blade at a 90- degree angle. DO NOT SLICE IT OFF because this could pull resin out of the impact area. It should feel smooth when you are done. If it does not, repeat the Pit Filling steps 8 and 9 and 10 and try again.
- Polish the pit. Shake up your bottle of pit polish and apply a small drop to the damage. Attach your polishing wheel and buff to your satisfaction, adding more polish if necessary. Note: an easier way to have a clear pit is Spray Away glass cleaner. Spray on the pit before scraping and keep the pit wet the entire time you scrape.
- Clean the entire windshield. (It’s the extras that make a big difference).
Fresh razor blades leave a smoother less noticeable blemish
To probe more efficiently and quickly, go around once and flex (push on the leg with the probe) all legs of the star break to see which are filling and which are not. Concentrate on the ones that appear to be filling first because probing these will often help the others open and fill. Go to each leg in turn and flex probe until filled. If a star break has multiple legs and all but a few fills, you may need to drill them.
Repair Tip -Technique to prevent any waste of resin. Cure under pressure, then loosen the leveling bolt and injector cylinder slightly. Then loosen the piston by turning it 1/4 to 1/2 turn counterclockwise, slide the screwdriver under the suction cups to remove from the glass. Turn your tool upside down and place the cap on the injector. There will about 1/2 drop if resin in the pit. You can use that resin for a pit-filler if the impact chip was small.
TECHNIQUES TO COMPLETELY FILL THE BREAK
Many times just vacuum and pressure cycles will not completely fill the break. The following are different techniques that when properly used, will make you the best. Learn them all. See our video page.
- Piston Pressure: Increase pressure by twisting the piston clockwise. Be careful not to “flower” the break and be careful if the windshield is hot.
- Flexing: Flexing opens the crack (or legs of the star breaks) up wider allowing the windshield repair resin to flow, overfilling the break so that when you release the pressure you have applied with your screwdriver or the Star-Flexor, the break closes back up and the resin will move closer to the tips. How to flex: Take your screwdriver or Star Flexor Tool in your windshield repair kit and push on the leg of the star break that is not filled until you see resin crawl further up the tips. Press and hold until leg is filled. Push at the base of the leg first and ease out towards the point or end of the leg. BE EXTREMELY CAREFUL DOING THIS ON A HOT WINDSHIELD. You could cause the leg to crack further. You can usually press harder on a cold windshield. Also, see our newsletter website (www.windshieldrepairjournal.com) for more information on the Star-Leg Flexor or see pages 28-30 of this manual.
- Manual Pressure Pushing: While in the pressure cycle, take your thumb or finger and gently press on the piston, easy does it. Press and release, press and release. Watch the resin move and fill the break. ALWAYS press gently.
- Pressure Pushing and Flexing: Simultaneously doing manual pressure (#3) and flexing (#2) is very effective and fast.
- Bridge Pressure: Twist the cylinder, the leveling screw, or both. This will flex the glass which opens the break and puts more pressure on the resin when in the pressure cycle.
- Drill: When all else fails to cure, then go back and drill the unfilled section, leg or tip. This is covered in the next section.
|DRILL AND CHARGER||TAPPER AND NEEDLE|
To Drill or Not to Drill?
The drill is your best friend. The better you drill, the better technician you will be.
When to drill:
1. Look to see if there is a black circle underneath the impact point. If there is, you will most likely NOT need to drill. This black circle is the bullseye of the break. If there is not one, you will drill and create one. The bullseye indicates that there is a space/passageway that will allow the resin to flow into the break.
2. Another way to determine whether or not to drill is to put one drop of 20 cps on the impact point. If you notice it seeping into the break, you do not need to drill.
Many damages will require drilling and through experience and practice, you will learn how to tell when you should or won’t have to, just by glancing at the break.
Objective: Drill the smallest, most inconspicuous hole possible.
|Drilling||Tapping a Bullseye|
Setting Up the Drill:
Loosen the head of the drill in your windshield repair kit. Insert the drill bit and tighten the drill head.
- Drill about ½ of the way through the first layer of glass. DO NOT go all the way through the first layer of glass. If you do, you will hit the laminate (plastic) and cause a permanent mark on the laminate.
- Place the bullseye tapper needle into the drilled hole.
- Tap the needle with the tapper just hard enough the create a mini-bullseye. This will make a good size hole and allow the resin to flow into the area very easily.
- Mount your holding structure with the injector and fill the drilled area using vacuum/pressure cycles.
- Cure under pressure for 2 minutes. (Cure time may vary with the intensity of your UV light).
- Fill the pit, cure, and polish.
Drilling is very important. You will be using it in many situations.
PRACTICE: Go to a glass shop and get a 12X12 or 24X24 inch piece of laminated glass or purchase a windshield a place it on a rack or two saw horses. Drill and tap 10 bullseyes per day for a week and you will be proficient by the end of the week.
- Flowering: This is another reason for choosing the proper windshield repair resin is important. Generally, flowering occurs when you are using a resin that is too thin on a hot windshield. Use a thicker resin or make sure the glass is cool before beginning the repair. Using too much pressure, spreading the resin out and beyond the break can also cause flowering.
- Black Spots: Caused by not curing the break long enough under pressure and mostly seen in bullseyes.
- Spotty or Dirty Appearance: This is caused by contamination of the break either by your lubricant, moisture or very old break.
- Cylinder O-Ring not fitting: If your o-ring does not stay on the cylinder, it may be due to cured resin on the cylinder or the o-ring has swelled. Please see the Cleaning and Maintenance section and/or replace the o-ring.
- Large Impact: DO NOT REPAIR THIS DAMAGE IF IT IS WITHIN THE DRIVER’S LINE OF VISION!
Large impacts fall into 3 categories; all can be repaired with this technique.
- Impact area larger than the injector o-ring
- A significant amount of glass missing at the impact
- Multiple impact points
Considerations for repair:
- An airtight space needs to be created which can be used to deliver the resin under pressure and to remove the air under vacuum.
- The more of the crushed glass that is removed before the impact area is sealed, the clearer the resulting blemish will be when the repair is complete.
- The repair technique for these types of damages must be chosen at your initial assessment. You cannot re-do a repair with this technique.
Windshield Repair Procedure For Large Impacts:
Wearing your safety goggles, remove all of the crushed, pulverized and cracked glass occupying the initial impact area or areas using the probe in your windshield repair kit. You want to remove as much of the damaged glass as possible. When done you should have a large crater.
- Using 2400-cps resin, place a generous amount on the glass above the crater and allow it to flow/roll into the crater. Use enough resin to cover the entire break area and let it roll into the impact point to prevent air bubble formation.
- Place a film tab to cover the entire break area, as well as any legs that may be surfaced. It is crucial to tab and cure quickly to prevent the resin from seeping into the bullseye or fouling the airspace around the impact crater.
- Cure the resin completely and remove the tabs but do not scrape. You now have a damage that is totally sealed and airtight.
- Drill a passage through the cured resin into the break, usually right at the original impact point.
- Star legs won’t fill: Star Legs not filling is a common problem. One reason a leg of a break won’t fill is that it is not connected to the bullseye or it is closed from lamination stress. The solution then is to connect it with the least amount of work, in the least amount of time without creating other problems use the Star-Leg Flexor to achieve this. Mount the Star Flexor in your windshield repair kit onto the leg almost touching the injector and begin turning the pressure bolt until you see the leg refract and connect to the breaks bullseye. Stop and let resin seep into the leg. See the directions for the Star Flexor Tool. Do the same for any leg that does not totally fill. You can also manually do this with the probe.
- The repair cured while repairing: You were not working in the true shade. The shade of a tree is not adequate. UV rays cure your resin and unless these are blocked the windshield repair resin will cure. Something solid must be used; cardboard, plasticized canvas, artist board, etc.
- X-Phobic – Rain-X remover and brake cleaner
- Xtra Bond – Adhesion promoter – increases the adhesive bond to the glass
- Star Flexor – Flexes stone breaks and the legs of stars open so to completely fill breaks.
- Rainproof Additive – one drop added to 5-8 drops of resin will render your resin waterproof.
Rain-X Removal for Windshield Repair
X-Phobic – hydrophobic coating remover (patent pending) is for the removal of Rain-X to allow windshield repair adhesives to bond to the windshield glass avaliable as a pre-treatment and an additive. Without removal of Rain-X, the windshield repair resin will be blocked from the glass and the stone break or crack cannot be repaired. This will cause the consumer to have to pay hundreds of dollar for a new windshield and the windshield repair technician loses a repair job. Currently windshield repair technicians are losing hundreds of dollars per month due to the presence of Rain-X on the windshield. The are three versions of X_Phobic: (1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3) primer for the Permashield.
This chemical mixture is a Rain-X remover for windshield repair and it will also remove carwash wax and detergents, moisture and other contaminants.
Directions: Some technicians are reporting that Rain-X is on 40% of windshields. Ask every customer before doing a repair if they have used Rain-X or have in their windshield washer fluid. You ca also test every windshield for Rain-X before starting the repair by placing a drop or two of water on the windshield surface. If it beads and rolls, there is a hydrophobic coating, most likely Rain-X. If the water rolls down and leaves a line of water then there is none.
Additive- Directions for Stone break: The Additive (the smaller bottle) is easier and faster. Mix one drop to 4-8 drops of resin in your injector and stir (a toothpick works best). Then do the repair.
Additive – Directions for a crack: Mix one drop to four to five drops of resin, then do the repair.
Pretreatment for a Stone-Break –This is the larger one ounce bottle. Place a d rop on the impact point of the stone-break and flex the glass to help it seep into the break. Allow it to evaporate and then do the repair. You can speed up evaporation with a heat-gun or hair dryer.
Pretreament for a Crack – This is the larger one ounce bottle. Drop into the entire length of the crack by cappilary action and then allow to evapoarte. Use a heatgun or hair dryer to speed up evaporation.
Purchase Price: One bottle of pre-treatment will decontaminate over 100 breaks. One bottle of Additive will do 60 breaks. Don’t lose another job to Rain-X !
The First and Only Adhesion Promoter for Windshield Repair
Xtra Bond (patent pending) is an adhesion promoter for windshield repair which will allow windshield repair adhesives to have a greater mechanical and chemical bond to the windshield glass by etching and priming the surface of the crack(s). The are three versions of Xtra Bond: (1) Additive, (2) pre-treatment and (3) primer for the Permashield.
Directions for a stone break: Use the Additive (smaller bottle) -one drop to four drops of resin mixed into your injector. Then do the repair.
Directions for a crack: (1) The additive (smaller bottle. Mix in your injector one drop with five to six drops of resin and stir (a toothpick works best). As a Pre-Treatment -this is the larger once ounce bottle, Inject by capillary action along the entire length of the crack and allow it to evaporate. You can use a heat gun or hair dryer to speed up evaporation. We also recommend you then prime the edge area (the four inches from the edge) of an edge crack with primer resin after the Xtra Bond has evaporated. Wipe off any excess on the windshield surface immediately.
Pre-Treatment Directions for a Stone-Break: Place a drop above the pit and allow it to roll into the pit before doing the repair. Flex the break with a probe to move the Xtra Bond into the break. Allow it to completely evaporate including any chemical that seeped into the break. Wipe off excess immediately. You can speed up evaporation with a heat gun or hair dryer.
Re-Repair Resin -There is a huge market for the re-repair of Safelite repairs as many of their repairs are not completely filled, many are just pit-filled. Much of this is becuase their technicians are not allowed to drill and their resin deteriorates rapidly in cold weather due to being underfilled by thier repair equipment. We have seen and re-repaired as many as six in one day. This resin bonds to glass and their resin. It will also bond to any other acrylic, urethane, hybrid or epoxy resin which is most of the resins on the market.
For the radiating crack and partial bullsye just drill through their resin in the impact point which will only be in the pit since they do not drill. For stars where they have clogged up the bullseye and left the legs half-filled you drill and tap a bullseye at the tip of each leg and completely cure with your injector in the pressure mode. For bulleye or combination break where there are voids in the bullseye, drill the edge of the largest void to the pvb as they have no bond to the pvb. Their resin pulls off the pvb when they cure thus leaving a void between the resin and the pvb. After drilling to the pvb then fill using vacuum and pressure and as always cure with your injector in the pressure mode.
Rainproof Additive – Add one drop into your injector with 4-8 drops of resin depending on amount of water in the break. Then stir with a plastic toothpick. Do mutiple pressure and vacuum cycles to mix the resin with the water in the break. Disgard the remaining resin in the injector after you are finshed with the repair.
New Windshield Repair Tool Instructions
The #1 mistake made in the repair of a stone break is leaving a leg or legs unfilled or not completely filled to the tip(s). This new windshield repair tool eliminates that problem. The Star Flexor can flex open any unfilled section of any type of stone break.
The first photograph on the left uses the least amount of pressure with a two-inch suction cup for pressure and 1 ¾ inch suction cup for stability. These cups are also low profile so the pressure point is more blunt rather than pin point. The small bolt will allow the pressure point to be altered and raise the tip up for viewing progress when you are mounted over and parallel to a leg.
The second photograph is a three-inch suction cup with a higher profile. This will allow more pressure and pin point pressure. Pressure in all modes is controlled by the pressure bolt. The experienced technician will prefer this set up and this mode most often. Moving the cups toward the point alters the pressure and the profile. Reversing the tool also changes the pressure from pin point to blunt. Blunt can be used for flexing sections of a break, which comes in handy when using higher viscosity resins or on a star burst. Higher viscosity resins have more durability and should be used for breaks over the defroster area.
The third photo is the Star Flexor 2. This mode has the most stability and the profile can be adjusted by moving the cross bar into the four mounting holes. The fourth hole will give the highest profile and the third is where I seem to use it most often. The second hole can be used for blunt pressure to flex more than one leg at a time such as with a star burst.
Star Flexor Set-Up
|Stage 1||Stage 2|
Step by Step Instructions:
- Clean the area around the break so your suctions cups have no interference from dirt on the windshield.
- Determine which pressure and profile mode you will be using and place the cups in the proper hole. I suggest keeping your cup in the third hole as in the photo; this will be the one you use most often.
- Use Vaseline (petroleum jelly) on the suction cups to seal and maneuver. If you are going to be moving around the break to flex more than one leg you need to apply sufficient Vaseline. Insufficient Vaseline will cause more work. Vaseline cleans up easy if you wipe it off with a dry cloth first, before cleaning with a glass cleaner. Never try to remove vaseline with glass cleaner. Wipe it off first.
- Mount the Star Flexor windshield repair tool near the leg you are going to flex. Note: When mounting suction cups to a windshield it is always better to peel back the edges and lay them on the glass rather than pushing them on. Pushing suction cups on can spread the damage on a hot or sensitive windshield.
- Turn the bolt so that the tip lowers and almost touches the glass.
- Slide the tool perpendicular or parallel to the leg. Perpendicular will give you a better view.
- Carefully and slowly turn the pressure bolt which will lower the point and apply pressure until you see the leg flex or start to fill. See above photo – Stage 1. Like any windshield repair tool too much pressure can spread the damage.
- Once you see the leg flex or start to fill STOP and let it work by itself. See above photo Stage 2. Use the least amount of pressure as is possible. Note: Windshields have a tendency to crack horizontally. Use less pressure on legs that are horizontal.
- After the leg has filled release the pressure and remove the suction cup.
- If you are going to do another leg then release the pressure and slide it to the other leg and repeat steps 6-9.
There are 4 things you should immediately do to establish yourself as a business.
- Determine the form of ownership for your business. There are a number of different forms of ownership such as sole proprietorship, C-corporation, S-Corporation, LLC etc. Each form of ownership has advantages and disadvantages. You may want to seek expert advice from an attorney or an accountant.
- Choose a name for your business. Your name can have a significant impact on the level of success you achieve, both in the start up phase and over the long run. Choose your name carefully because you should expect to have it for a long, long time. Some of the criteria to consider are:
- A name beginning with “A” will give you the first placement in the telephone book, such as AA Windshield Repair but most people thumb the phone book going backwards so this is not a reason to start your business name with an a.
- It should be easy to remember. Catchy, related to a local landmark, such as Rocky Mountain Windshield Repair. Refrain from using names with double meanings or one that could be confused with someone else’s business. You might want to think of some logos that will give you an idea for a name. They will be tied together and should compliment each other. They should be used throughout all forms of your advertising, car, business cards, and shirts.
- Your name should not include Ultra BOND in it, but feel free to state “using the Ultra Bond system”.
- Go to your state’s Secretary of State Website and apply for an EIN (employer identification number). This is done on-line for free or a minimum charge. Use this EIN for your bank account and to give the insurance companies and their networks.
If you do not repair cracks then joining the network will not have much affect on your business. They mostly steer to their own shops so do not expect them to be sendng you business. However you will have to deal with them when you do insurance work.
Call the claim phone number on the insured’s insurance card and follow the prompts. When you call in your first repair you will be in the system and they will fax you tax forms for you to fill out and fax back to them. You are then in the system. You will get paid within about 30 days.
- LYNX – Fax your invoices to Glass Comp. at (239) 479-6161
- Safelite – go to www.sgcnetwork.com and fill in the blanks
- Harmon – fax to the number on the dispatch they fax to you
Have the Assignment of Proceeds printed on your invoice
Assignment of Proceeds – In consideration of [COMPANY NAME]’s agreement to repair or replace my damaged automobile glass, I hereby assign my auto glass claim and all policy proceeds due me for the glass claim under the terms of my insurance policy to [COMPANY NAME]. Accordingly, I instruct my insurance company to address all issues associated with this claim with [COMPANY NAME] and to pay all amounts amounts directly to [COMPANY NAME]. I authorize my insurance company to release policy, coverage and other information related to this glass claim to [COMPANY NAME]. I agree to pay my deductible, if any, myself. I also agree that if I do not have insurance coverage, I will pay for the work myself.
ADVERTISING MUST BE CONSISTENT! ADVERTISING MUST BE CONSISTENT!
Wherever you choose to advertise, be consistent with it. Potential customers will begin noticing your ad and you need to be there when they need you. You are offering a new and unique service and you have to educate them.
A good way to preserve your cash flow is to establish accounts with your advertising sources. Although they may require an up-front payment for your first ad, you are billed thirty days after you have been advertising and the bill is not due for another thirty days, giving you sixty days to make money on the ad before having to pay for it.
Basic Sources of Advertising:
- Company Website – a must
- Google Adwords
- Yellow Pages – check your area. getting obsolete in some markets
- Weekly Advertising Circular
- Direct Marketing – best and most lucrative for chip repair
For all forms of advertising, you can find independent surveys that give you the most relevant demographic and consumer data available for your area. The studies indicate how many people are listening to the radio, watching t.v. or reading the newspaper. Ask media representatives for their survey and compare it to an independent one to get the most accurate information. Your local chamber of commerce should be able to direct you to those resources.
Your market survey should tell you which newspapers were read within the time period they survey. Some will also show the number of days read by the largest percentage of customers, their age group, and income.
Newspaper generally ranks second for best source of income. You need to select a consistent period to advertise (once a week, once every two weeks), and try to be consistent where your ad is placed. Use your logo each time your ad runs, or at least be sure the heading remains the same. Customers will begin to recognize you by that logo or heading. Your wording can change as often as you want – offer a special, but something must remain the same every time (logo). Your representative will be helpful in letting you know which days have the most readership, which can vary with seasonal sports. You may want to be in the sports section on Mondays during football season or in the food section on coupon days.
The benefit to the newspaper is that the customers are usually more qualified. They have read your ad, are curious about your service, and more than likely, have a repairable break on their windshield when they call. Also, the newspaper seems to draw the customers will new vehicles that have been damaged and that are expensive to replace.
Weekly Ad Circular:
They can work, are cheaper than the newspaper, but may require more repetition or a larger ad. It’s a good place to do coupon advertising. Be sure to include an expiration date. Display ads are better than reader ads; a picture is worth a thousand words and it’s hard to describe a new service in 1 or 2 lines.
ADDITIONAL SOURCES OF ADVERTISING:
Market surveys for radio change more often because the stations are constantly changing their format. Probably the best surveys will be the ones you get from each station. You want to know when they have the largest listening audience, how many stations there are in your area, and what percentage or the total listening audience is listening to that station! Radio can be expensive and risky.
From your market surveys find out how many people watch the local news and what time and stations are the best. Unless you can find a widely watched, inexpensive cable time slot, TV might not reach a large number of people on a consistent basis. However, because of the additions of cable and satellite, some areas have dropped their rates for local stations. If you have local ABC, NBC, CBS or FOX affiliates this is a very god source of advertising.
Have a website made, optimize and submit to the search engines. Call Rich for contents for your website and recommendations.
HELPFUL HINTS FOR ADVERTISING
An ad must get the message across at a glance if in print. Don’t get too wordy. Try pictures, but make sure something in your ad stays the same all the time and is recognizable.
The heading should be the main message you are trying to convey “THAT CRACK CAN BE FIXED!” “LONG CRACK REPAIR” “DON’T REPLACE IT”. Your business name should not be the biggest, but can be included in fairly large print if your name is descriptive “FIX A CRACK WINDSHIELD REPAIR”.
The body of your ad should have the details and information needed for a person to make a fast decision. Keep it short and clear to the reader; they are not a repair technician. If you are the only person in the area doing windshield repair, refer them to the yellow pages if you have an advertisement there.
For t.v., showing what you do is the best. For radio, too many words can cause the listener to tune out. If you can relate the ads to the customer, they are more likely to watch or listen. Does your area do road repair or chip sealing that causes breaks in windshields? How did you get a crack in your windshield? By asking people how they got their break, you’ll get an idea for a commercial.
A magnetic or hand painted sign on the side or back of your vehicle is a great and inexpensive form of advertising. Use the logo you are using in your advertising – recognition.
Business to Business
There are two cost-effective ways to prospect, cold calling and telephone solicitation. We have enclosed a partial lit of potential business customers that you may be able to reach in person or by telephone. Get the word out to your friends, neighbors, and businesses you currently use for different services (mechanic, lube & tube).
1. In person (cold calling)
The most productive way to prospect would be to do it in person. Set yourself a schedule to call on five businesses per day. It is advised to do no more than 10 and no less than 10, but you should do it every day. Consistency. The reason you don’t want to do more than 10 calls a day is that you may get discouraged if you are turned away too often.
When entering a business you will need to speak to the person in charge of vehicle maintenance. Ask if they have heard of windshield repair versus replacing. Let them know how much it could save their company (up to 75% most of the time). Offer to do a free repair – you choose the break. If they pick, they will pick the largest and worst break, which could be dirty.
Offer a special fleet rate and a schedule where you would come in once a week or once a month to check their windshields. If they have heard of windshield repair or if they already have someone doing their repairs, ask them if they are satisfied with the work being done and then inform them that your service offers long crack repair, which can save them even more. Leave a card, magnet, brochure, pen, anything you think they might keep, read and remember you by.
2. By telephone
Telephone solicitation is more difficult because it will take you longer to reach the person who makes the decisions or is in charge of vehicle maintenance. Make 10 calls a day every day if this is the avenue you choose.
The customer calling will most likely not know anything about windshield repair. Therefore, your first step is to take control of the conversation. Never let the customer take control. You are the one with the knowledge.
Ask: Have they ever heard of windshield repair before? No? Describe what you do. “We inject clear glass adhesive (or resin) into the break which will fill in the gap and prevent the break from spreading any further. It will significantly reduce the appearance of the damage and restore the strength.
Ask: Could you please describe the break, what caused it, and how long ago did it occur? (By asking questions, you show that you have to have specific information to perform the repair – knowledge, you are qualifying the repair, and showing interest and concern to the customer). Proceed: “Your windshield is repairable and the cost is only $__________. Let them know about your shop service or mobile service. The customer will usually just say “uh huh” or “okay”, which is your sign to close the deal.
Proceed: “We have tomorrow available at (time) or (time). If they seem hesitant, give them a little more information – your written warranty, how long cracks have been repaired, etc. If you are sure their insurance company covers repairs, tell them to bring their insurance card and the repair may cost them nothing – but be sure you are correct. You want to get them in the shop. With the insurance networks sending customers to their own list of vendors, you have to keep the control in your hands. Once the customer is in your shop, the network can’t make them leave. Go for the close again.
Confirm the date and time of appointment. Be sure you tell the customer not to wash the windshield prior to coming in – you will clean it for them when you are done. Water may prevent the resin form adhering to the glass (showing off your knowledge again). If performing the repair via mobile service, show the customer how much you care about their car. Protect it. Get it into true shade, use a big towel to protect their car and clean the windshield thoroughly when you are done.
Always repeat the procedure to the customer before performing the repair, have them sign the warranty, making sure they are clear that the break will not disappear completely. You are performing a repair service – not giving them a new windshield.
DIRECT MARKETING – GET INTO A PARKING LOT – Some grocery and department stores will rent you a space in there parking lot. You can also see if a car wash, car repair , tire store, etc. will allow you to be in their parking lot for a fee (preferred) or offer them 1/4 of your gross income as they are providing the customers. Surveys have shown one out of every three vehicles has repairable damage. You will only need nine-ten customers per day to see a six figure annual profit giving 1/3 to the owner. Better for you to get a flat rental fee so they do not know you have struck gold in their lot.
Getting Your Windshield Repair Business Up and Running in One Month
1. Domain Name – Go to www.godaddy.com and purchase a domain name. Your domain name would be the keyword that is searched. Best to get www.windshieldrepair_____________.com .The name of your city or town after windshieldrepair. Example www.windshieldrepairgrandjunction.com is our local website. Cost is about $19.00 for a domain name.
2. Hosting Package – Purchase a hosting packing from godaddy for your domain name. Cost is about $50-70 per year..
3. Internet Advertising – Go to yellowpages.com, yellowbook.com, the yellowpage.com. and list your business under windshield repair, windshields and auto glass. Cost is 0.
4. autoglasssearch.com will place you in multiple websites. You are only charged when someone calls you from that advertisement. $13.50 per call. Call 888-268-2507 or e-mail [email protected] with questions about their advertising service.
5. Google Adwords- Google will walk you through and help you. You control your budget. It can be anywhere from $100 per month to $500 per month. This places your website on the top of the page when someone in your area searches windshield repair.
6. Google Places – almost like your own website with Google. You will show up on maps organically when people search for windshield repair.
7. YouTube – Shoot a video of yourself doing a repair or about your business. Post it on YouTube with keywords that include the name of the town(s) you work and windshield repair, windshield, windshield crack repair, auto glass, glass repair and auto glass repair, etc.
8. Angie’s List – Go to Angieslist.com and register your business and create a profile. This is where many people shop for a credible business. Cost is 0.
9. Craig’s List – Local internet classified advertising.
CLEANING YOUR TOOLS
You do NOT need to clean your tools very often. You generally store them upside-down with resin in the injector with the cap on so you are always ready for a repair. You only need to clean your tools when you feel the threads are not turning smoothly, the resin is not clear or you see cured resin. To clean – loosen the set-screw of the quick-turn injector and remove the piston out of the cylinder. Dip both pieces into 70-90% rubbing alcohol. Run the brush through the cylinder and then dry by running a small piece of rolled paper towel through the cylinder. Dip the threads of the bridge into the alcohol and brush the threads. Wipe the suction cups clean or use a glass cleaner if they do not wipe clean.
For cured resin on the outside threads of your injector, soak in acetone and then brush clean.
As with most anything you do, the more you practice and perform actual repairs, the better technician you will become. You may even develop a technique that works better for you. You are encouraged to share your ideas, experiments and stories with your fellow technicians and us by sending a letter, or contacting us by e-mail.
Good luck! You’re on your way to controlling your own future.
REPAIR MORE….. MAKE MORE
ULTRA BOND, INC.
2458 E. Main Street, B-1, Grand Junction, CO 81501
This windshield repair manual is provided by Ultra Bond and is strictly about windshield repair resin, tools, equipment and supplies.